The H&M x Lee collection launched on 11th February 2021 in the UK. This exclusive collaboration is one of H&M’s many sustainable capsule collections which is set to combine sustainability and longevity to create an affordable, 90’s-themed range inspired by Lee’s extensive archives.

The collaboration has been created using a new “holistic” approach according to fast-fashion giant H&M, whose owner (H&M Group) currently produces 3 billion new garments every year (who needs that many clothes?!). 

The collection includes H&M’s first 100% recycled cotton jeans (made from 80% post-industrial waste and 20% post-consumer waste), a non-cotton denim jacket, and non-leather back patches made from Forest Stewardship Council (FSC) certified cork and jacron paper. 

On the surface, this collection is exciting and promising. For the very first time, H&M has made the Life Cycle Assessment data available on hm.com which shows the water, C02 and energy impact of each denim garment. They claim to have even considered the threads and fastenings used for each design.

Victoria Allen, a designer at H&M said, “To create the Lee x H&M collection, we’ve worked hard with our suppliers to find more sustainable solutions for the threads that hold the jeans together, the cotton that makes the pockets, and the metal for the button, rivets and zipper. We hope that by pushing for more sustainable solutions, it makes it easier for the denim industry as a whole to follow our lead.”

Toxic Waste & Overproduction – The Environmental Impact of Denim

So does the denim industry need to follow the lead of H&M? Yes and no. The denim industry is a monster polluter — from growing the cotton (the material used to make denim) to dyeing the fabric, it takes on average 20,000 litres of water to produce one pair of jeans and one t-shirt — it would take more than 13 years for you to drink that amount of liquid!

But it’s not just about the sheer volume of water — cotton is the most abundantly produced natural fibre in the world with 25.9 million tons produced every year. It accounts for nearly a quarter of the world’s insecticide use and 11% of pesticides. This is a major source of water and land pollution and is fatal for soil biodiversity, which all have a deadly effect on human health.

70 million pairs of jeans are sold in the UK every year and that’s not accounting for the rest of the ‘denim staples’ that make up our wardrobes — that’s an absurd amount of water, dye and chemicals.

So the Lee x H&M collection looks promising with their 100% recycled cotton jeans, cotton-free denim and their use of TENCEL™ Lyocell (a super-soft sustainable material) alongside the use of water-saving dyes and lower impact denim washes that are 3rd party verified for lower water usage, chemical, and energy consumption.

While all of this may sound great, there is still one big issue with this collection: overproduction. In the straight-sized section of the women’s range, there are nine different styles and colours of jean. Accompanying these are four hats, a belt, a handful of t-shirts and other denim items like shirts, corsets and dresses. 

By their very definition (casual strong-wearing trousers), jeans are one of the most sustainable items we own. They are tough, durable and aren’t often subject to the same trend fluctuations as other garments, so finding pre-loved denim is often a lot easier. But with women owning on average seven pairs of jeans and men six, I think our overconsumption and fast fashion’s overproduction of denim is contradicting its purpose — longevity. 

“Conscious” Greenwashing & Ethical Pitfalls

H&M is fixing fast fashion with its sustainable initiatives which include in-store recycling, repair ateliers in flagship stores and a Conscious line. But there is a simpler solution, and that’s slowing down and producing less!

H&M’s Conscious line, according to their website is made up of pieces that “have been created with a little extra consideration for the planet — made from at least 50% sustainably sourced materials – like organic cotton and recycled polyester.”

But only 2% of H&M’s products make up their ‘Conscious’ line — that’s 131 items out of 6,026 pieces that are currently on offer for women on their website.* So, by default, the remaining 98% of H&M’s women’s collection is made without “extra consideration for the planet” and are, therefore, UNsustainable. 

But it’s not all about overproduction; to be sustainable you need to be operating ethically, and the pandemic has highlighted the brand’s ethical pitfalls. 

When we first went into lockdown back in March, major brands and retailers including H&M cancelled or put on hold over $3 billion worth of completed and in-process clothing orders, putting more than two million workers' jobs at risk which drove garment workers into deeper levels of deprivation. 

Following this catastrophic decision to refuse payment, the #PayUp campaign was formed demanding that brands paid for all in-production and completed orders. After cancelling or delaying orders worth $70 million, H&M reversed its decision and agreed to #PayUp in full for all completed and in-process orders placed before the pandemic.

But ultimately, if H&M really wanted to be a green and sustainable brand, then protecting their most essential workers — the people who make their clothes — would be top priority for them.

Misguided collaborations 

So why has Lee decided to collaborate with serial greenwasher H&M?

Lee’s EVP global brand president, Chris Waldeck, said, “Lee is proud to be collaborating with H&M to continue our efforts to make better denim. Our brand was founded more than 130 years ago with innovation in mind, and today we are happy to be joining with H&M to advance denim into a more sustainable future.”

Or flip that question and ask why H&M has decided to collaborate with a not-so-sustainable denim brand for their latest “transparent” and “holistic” collection?

Lee has recently set out some of their own sustainability goals, aiming to source 100% sustainably-grown or recycled cotton and utilise more than 50% sustainable synthetics by 2025.  

But the sustainable directory Good On You gives Lee a ‘not good enough’ rating, a lower rating than H&M’s ‘it’s a start’, as they provide little evidence into their supply chains, labour force and animal policies. 

Everyone starts somewhere, and fashion brands are beginning to understand that sustainable practices are fundamental to the future of fashion and our planet. On the surface, this collection’s sole purpose appears to be sustainability and transparency and is also affordable, accessible and size-inclusive (goes up to 4XL which is equivalent to a UK size 32-34). But once again, in true fast fashion style, the brands have failed to see the true problem — overproduction! 

With over 6,000 items on H&M’s already saturated website, this trend-based collection does not need t-shirts, hats, belts and corsets! If this collection was honestly made to lead the way for more sustainable, transparent denim then H&M and Lee should have created just that… a DENIM collection, without all the extra crap. 

This is just another fast fashion collaboration that has been able to benefit from green marketing. What matters is VOLUME, and this collection is fuelling consumer culture through the false pretense of sustainability. A conscious collection that makes up 2% of your output is not good enough. This collection is not good enough. 

What happens when this collaboration is sold out? Will H&M’s denim be made using this new “holistic” approach? I guess we’ll see, but I think we all know the answer... 

Ultimately, while fast fashion fails to keep their most essential workers safe and while brands keep producing obscene amounts of garments every year it doesn’t matter how many sustainable initiatives they have, or how many green collaborations they make, it’s not until they address the core issues of overproduction and worker protection that there will be any real, sustainable change. 

* as of early February 2021.