Exploring the pillars of JOHNJO Clothing
Each brand is like a book of short stories. Garments and accessories alike share desires, passions and tales of times gone by, and are, more often than not, inspired by a particular person. The same can be said about the assortment of paisley prints and stiff silks assembling the bones of JOHNJO Clothing.
This week I had the pleasure of reminiscing the journey of JOHNJO Clothing with founder Emma Hirst and intern Hannah Pollard; exploring how each and every moment, memory and milestone of JOHNJO’s journey came to create the admirable pillars of the brand. Follow us as we travel the short and sweet silver thread of experiences and emotions that, in being felt by Emma, crafted JOHNJO.
If this were a film rather than an article lit up by the digital screen, the opening scene would see Emma, doey-eyed and hot footed, stepping out of her dorms at Northumbria University with flight tickets in hand. Split screen and Emma would be wandering the streets of Amsterdam. “Moving to Amsterdam was a once in a lifetime opportunity but it wasn’t easy, as at the time I was 19 turning 20 and had to find my own accommodation and fund my full experience,” Emma said.
Living independently in the lively city of Amsterdam, Emma had no one but her own person and work to keep her company. Amidst this fearsome yet fascinating experience when Emma interned at Bybrown, she was introduced to the concept of sustainability. From here-on-out, fuelled by an ambition to set the fashion industry alight, Emma sparked emerald embers of sustainability across her path.
Emerald embers of sustainability
In her second year of University and working at Bybrown, Emma began regularly dreaming of creating her own brand - a dream she came to express to the lead designer, Melanie Brown. “Melanie was so amazed by what I showed her that the next day she set up a screen printing workshop for me to get my prints on to fabric,” Emma said excitedly. This was the first pinch of a thread in the woven tale of JOHNJO, and to this day Emma envelopes each fabric in her own hand-designed prints.
“When I first set foot in the industry, I didn't completely understand what sustainability actually meant,” Emma said. Like anyone embracing a pro-planet lifestyle for the first time, it took Emma a while to understand that sustainability doesn’t have one particular meaning to every person, but instead means an array of things to a myriad of people. “To me, sustainability means meeting our own needs without compromising the ability of future generations to meet their own,” Emma enthused. “When it comes to sustainability, the main issue that stuck with me was how much textile waste we as humans dispose of each year, and the fact I was one of them,” Emma said apologetically. “Fast fashion is so affordable and accessible, but I didn't know the damage I was causing to the planet,” she added.
Returning to university, with her new printmaking skills at hand and a bounty of sustainable insights, Emma cradled the passion of becoming a pro-planet designer dedicated to tackling issues around mass production waste. As she set her path aflame, and embarked on the cusp of graduation Emma hit a railroad. “As the first national lockdown hit and life came to a standstill fashion brands were forced to withdraw my applications and I was back to where it all began,” Emma said. As life, as is, seemed to grow darker, that silver thread of JOHNJO enveloped her mind and Emma took the first step.
“I had lots of fabric left over from university I hadn't used, this was my first initial step. With my experience from Bybrown still imprinted in my mind, I did a small photoshoot in Cornwall, in a villa we were staying in, and started making a few tops to sell on Depop,” Emma said. “I had a few sales but deep down I wanted to design something more,” with her printmaking class still fresh in mind, Emma found herself in the midst of creating what would be her best selling design - her Isabelle Tops.
From start to finish, from pattern cuttings to fabric design and sewing, every garment is considerably made. JOHNJOclothing is a minimal waste brand, tackling the ongoing troubles of excess waste that many large retailers ignore, and living by a goal to underproduce. “This is supporting the planet as no fabric goes to waste, once the order is through, Emma starts pattern drafting the design to the customers measurements and sews the garment together,” Hannah said.
Being made by hand in house by the talented designer, JOHNJO’s design process cuts out the dreaded overseas travels, unnecessary expenses and unethical sweatshops. JOHNJO’s garments are made for longevity from bespoke organic printed fabric, as they use very little water in the manufacturing process. “We work with the local water board to ensure ink waste is disposed of properly so nothing leaks into the environment,” Emma added.
Fashion to empower females.
In the midst of lockdown, another part of Emma’s journey to founding JOHNJO was inspired by her own rocky relationship with fashion, a relationship that can be understood by many young people everywhere. “I used to be a woman who ‘overdressed’ in clothing that was often ‘too much’ for some people,” Emma began. “Over the years heels turned to flats and outfits that once made me feel confident - vibrant colours and off-the-wall prints that embered my identity - didn't exist in my personal wardrobe anymore,” Emma added.
The words and opinions of others clouded Emma’s own reflection, and numbed that happiness she once felt when dressing every morning. Emma became so consumed by what people thought of her that her self-love vanished and she began to dress so that other people around her could dress better. “This is a battle that I shouldn't have let these people win,” Emma assured. Empowerment is therefore one of the strongest pillars of the JOHNJOclothing ethos. “I know there are other girls not being their true self because of the negativity of others,” Emma said. “I want to be a platform to help these girls reach out while embracing who they really are.”
Undivided attention to individuality
“We are a brand that dresses you for who you really are, and not what a fast fashion label tells you that you are,” Emma said before adding, “In today's society we are expected to look and act a certain way, but there is a movement of women who are saying no. We are a part of that movement.”
Emma is on a mission to create clothing that narrates the unique stories of each person she designs for. With this individuality came the need to be a handmade brand creating garments with anything-but-muted materials and patterns. Emma’s handmade creations pair striking resemblance to one another but are, once again, individual. Just like the individuals sporting Emma’s designs, JOHNJO’s identity is ever-developing. To this day, Emma says she is still figuring out the identity of JOHNJO and what the brand is all about. And as new opportunities present themselves at every turn, you never know what JOHNJO will mold into.
What’s ever-present is the wonderful way JOHNJO accepts and comforts those who sport the garments. “I always love hearing how wonderful the clothing fits and hugs customers,” Emma began before adding, “Many people say that they have never seen my prints before and that I have a distinctive image that screams JOHNJO.”
“At JOHNJO Clothing empowerment means designing bespoke pieces for women of all shapes and sizes, from all backgrounds. From your everyday woman to transwomen and drag queens, JOHNJO Clothing is all about dressing for individuality. “
— Emma, Founder of JOHNJO Clothing
From lockdown business, to fashion week, to the future
Regardless of having few feathers in its chick wings, JOHNJO was one of many designers at Simply Ladies Inc, Yorkshire Fashion Week that took place in September . Fashion week has an immense ability to unite people, whether that be designers collecting backstage, models celebrating in the aftermath of the flashing lights or audiences flowing out into the streets mid show. “It was an amazing experience, and opportunity to network with different designers and models,” Emma said. “Carron Cummings, who organised the event, became a mentor for me - suffering from severe anxiety - and helped me every step of the way to make my debut collection come alive,” she added.
This may have been JOHNJO’s first mingling milestone, but it certainly won’t be the last as the brand excels in both production and online. Emma has also been given the opportunity to showcase her second collection next year, with Simply Ladies Inc.
In the past year since the brand was founded, Emma has grown from designing and making garments at home, to having her own little studio in Halifax - a space that gives her the opportunity to separate her work and home life and truly focus on the brand. A brand many people may have given up on much sooner. “I see something in JOHNJO. I can see this brand helping a lot of women and that’s why I have put everything I have into it,” Emma said before adding, “I want to hear more women's stories and I want more women to reach out as we are a brand that doesn’t just dress women but empower women too, making them feel absolutely flawless in a piece that fits them perfectly.”
As for the future? Alongside designing pieces for Autumn Winter 21 Emma is eager to speak to more women who can ignite her inspiration for soul-freeing, Scandinavian designs. “Right now our aspiration is to reach more women who will help us say no to society expectations,” Emma said. “I am also part of the casting team for the Yorkshire Fashion week show in summer 2022, and I will be designing my second collection at JOHNJO”. This may seem a full-steam-ahead year, but Emma has ensured that so long as she has the support of her family and friends, she can achieve anything.
The future is family
When all is said and done, JOHNJO is a brand built on personal dreams and memories, and that is what will enable the brand to venture ahead. The brand's name, named after Emma’s parents, John and Joanne, is a testament to this. “They’re my number one fans,” Emma said before adding, “it was my way of saying thank you for everything they had done for me.”
Each key moment of Emma’s life before forming her brand have all donated to what are now the pillars of JOHNJO. In quiet moments caught between closed doors and final freedom, JOHNJO was birthed and what was set to be a nervous navigation of lockdown was soon cradled by a creative passion to build a successful brand. The journey has only now begun.